perfume write-ups: olympic orchids
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San Antonio, US – An independent artisanal perfumer, known online as Zoey | Cirrus Parfum, recently demystified the intricate role of aldehydes in fragrance creation through an educational video that has garnered significant attention within the perfumery community. In a presentation described by one viewer as a "mini Ted Talk," the perfumer, who openly states she is not a chemist but works extensively with chemicals, explained the fundamental chemical structure and diverse applications of aldehydes.The video highlighted that aldehydes, organic compounds characterized by a formyl group, are crucial for imparting fresh, modern, and highly volatile top notes to perfumes. Their historical significance was underscored by their popularization in iconic fragrances like Chanel No. 5. Viewers learned about the broad spectrum of scents aldehydes can produce, from "soapy" and "waxy" to "metallic" and "sparkly."A particularly intriguing segment of the video exposed what the perfumer termed "devious trickery" in chemical nomenclature. She revealed that several compounds commonly referred to as "Aldehyde C-14, C-16, and C-18" are, in fact, lactones—a different class of organic compounds. This mislabeling, she explained, was historically a deliberate tactic by labs to obscure their discoveries from competitors. "It's completely made up just to throw other chemists off the trail," she stated, emphasizing the blend of science and art in perfumery. The video also touched upon other aldehydes like benzaldehyde and vanillin, which contribute sweet, sugary, or almond-like notes, further complicating their classification for the uninitiated. This insightful breakdown offers a unique perspective on the hidden complexities behind beloved scents.
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